This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Think of Nice and hot, languid summers spent lounging on a beach are likely to spring to mind — along with luxury yachts, five-star hotels and elegant movie stars. But come to this eastern corner of the Côte d’Azur outside the summer months, and gone is the heat, ushered out by the salty breeze, along with the cosmopolitan crowds that typically fill the streets of the old town.
Not long ago, the off season was considered the best time to go. Long before the city’s fame as a summer destination, it thrived as a villégiature d’hiver (winter resort), offering aristocratic and upper-class families a chance to escape the bitter, gloomy winters of northern Europe and bask in its mild, coastal Mediterranean climate. The European elites of the 1800s turned Nice into what’s now recognised by UNESCO as the ‘Winter Resort Town of the Riviera’.
In the first part of the 19th century, it was mostly the British upper classes who would retreat here. A few decades later, they were joined by wealthy Russians, Germans and Austrians, among others, who brought with them their near-limitless funds and own ideas about how they wanted their winter homes to look — creating the eclectic mix of baroque, belle époque and art deco architecture seen in the city of Nice today.
Coco Beach is a small pebble cove with shallower waters and smaller crowds.
Photograph by Anthony Lanneretonne
Lu Fran Calin has been awarded Cuisine Nissarde status — a label recognising restaurants that promote typical regional recipes and ingredients.
Photograph by Anthony Lannertonne
These winter visitors, or hivernants, helped make Nice into what’s now the fifth-largest city in France, framed by the Provence Alps to the north and the palm-fringed Bay of Angels to the south. But despite its size, there’s little to suggest it’s changed significantly since the days of those early visitors — there’s hardly a glass-and-steel structure in sight, and life retains the same slow, casual rhythm.
Nice offers the same it always has. That includes the works of artists, such as Matisse, Picasso and Chagall, who all had a personal connection to the city, which are on display in many of the city’s museums. There are also relics of the past like the Hôtel Régina, built for Queen Victoria, who regularly wintered here — and even reminisced about it on her deathbed. Then there is the opulent Opéra de Nice, which hosts operas, ballets and concerts throughout the year for as little as €10 (£8.50).
While, for most, spending the entire winter in Nice is not viable anymore, just a short off-season break is enough to relax and revitalise. It’s best to take it slow: get lost in a painting at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice; wander the villa-lined streets of Cimiez imagining the lives of those who lived here in its heyday; sip a crisp glass of local rosé at Place Charles Félix and people-watch. There’s no denying that even out of season, Nice is a tonic for the soul.
1. Vieux Nice
Cobbled streets and colourful facades characterise Nice’s lively old town core. Restaurants, boutiques and ice cream parlours aside, the meandering streets have barely changed since the 1700s, when Nice was part of the Kingdom of Sardinia. Today, you can enjoy seafood from the stalls in Place Saint-François or have an aperitif overlooking the long market square of Cours Saleya.
2. Villa Mass é na
On Promenade des Anglais, Nice’s main drag, this villa-turned-museum offers a first-hand insight into how the European elites of the late 19th and early 20th centuries spent winters in Nice, through photographs and objects from the time. This grand, belle époque mansion was the winter residence of French politician Victor Masséna, and has been a museum since 1921. Don’t miss a stroll around the gardens dotted with palm trees.
3. Matisse Museum
Devoted to the work of French painter Henri Matisse, this is the one museum in Nice you won’t want to skip. The near-600-item collection mostly consists of his paintings and drawings, and objects that were brought here from his studio in Nice’s old town after his death. The setting — a 17th-century villa in Cimiez, near where Matisse and his wife are buried — is equally captivating.
4. Colline du Ch âteau
This park on top of a hill at the end of the Promenade des Anglais offers the best viewpoint over Nice’s terracotta roofs, and is especially scenic at sunset when the city is cast in an amber glow. Once home to a medieval castle, destroyed in 1706 by the troops of Louis XIV, it’s now a park with romantic 19th-century gardens complete with a faux waterfall and rock grotto. Those dreading the 300 steps to get there can take the lift next to the Tour Bellanda viewpoint.
5. Ch âteau de Bellet
It’s a little-known fact that the vineyards of Bellet, in the hills of Nice, form one of France’s smallest appellations and the only place in the world where wine is regularly made from the rare Braquet and Folle Noir grapes. Château de Bellet, where organic rosé and red has been made since the 18th century, hosts tours and tastings in its deconsecrated chapel.
6. Lou Camin Nissart
This hiking trail, covering 27 miles along Nice’s coastline, is a lot to tackle in one go. But the section from Mont Boron back into the city is a manageable wander through Aleppo pines and olive trees, past swish villas and along the rocky beach. If the incline is too much to handle, take a bus up to Mont Boron, take in the views over Villefranche-sur-Mer, then make your way down following the waymarked route back to Nice’s historic port area, Port Lympia.
Nicolas Alziari has been producing top-grade, Nice-style olive oil since 1868.
Photograph by mauritius images GmbH, Alamy
Where to shop
1. Cours Saleya Market
Set along Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice, this market is over 100 years old. The wooden stalls, covered by striped awnings, host sellers of fresh fruit and vegetables, antique dealers and one of the best-known flower markets in France. During summer evenings, another market pops up, showcasing crafts from local makers. Come here for unique souvenirs, one-of-a-kind jewellery and rare antiques.
2. Nicolas Alziari
Olives and olive oil are key ingredients in local cuisine, and Nicolas Alziari has been producing top-grade, Nice-style olive oil since 1868. The extra virgin olive oil is delicate and mild — perfect for drizzling over dishes or to make a vinaigrette for salads. Nicolas Alziari’s shop in Vieux Nice sells everything from vintage olive oil tins to cooking utensils and olives grown on its estates.
3. Chez Theresa
You’ll see fresh socca, a crispy chickpea pancake, cooked and sold on nearly every street corner in Vieux Nice. At Chez Theresa, socca has been cooked in a wood-fired oven since 1925 and is lauded as the best in the city. You’ll also find other traditional Niçoise foods such as pissaladière (a flatbread with onions, olives and anchovies) and chard pie here.
Where to eat
1. Lu Fran Calin
With tables spilling out onto the cobblestones of the old town and the chimes of the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate accompanying meals, this traditional restaurant has been awarded Cuisine Nissarde status — a label recognising restaurants that promote typical regional recipes and ingredients. Try the daube (beef stew) or courgette gratin and be sure to book in advance — it’s popular.
2. Sentimi
With Nice sitting less than 15 miles from the Italian border, influences from its neighbour to the south east unsurprisingly run strong in Niçoise cuisine. Sentimi, in the 18th-century Place Garibaldi, revisits the Italian classics with modern flair. The restaurant is famous for its crescenza cheese melted between two thin layers of pizza crust with your choice of toppings, but the grilled octopus is also divine.
3. Les Bains du Castel
Clinging onto a cliff that juts out above the eastern end of Nice’s main beach, this is a place for special occasions. With views out over the sea and the Promenade des Anglais, it’s at its best at sunset. The menu is heavily geared towards seafood — you’d do well to order the langoustine and peaches, or grilled monkfish.
Travellers can visit one of Nice’s many restaurants, shops, or bars during the winter season.
Photograph by Anthony Lanneretonne
Located in the 18th-century Place Garibaldi, Sentimi serves Italian classics with a modern flair.
Photograph by Anthony Lannertonne
Best hotels in Nice
1. H ôtel Villa Saint Hubert
Characterised by wrought iron balconies, pastel-blue shutters and a belle époque facade so typical of southern French villas, this is an independently owned hotel that offers comfortable rooms for a peaceful night’s sleep and easy access to all of Nice via the tram network. Breakfast is served in the greenery-filled garden.
2. Mama Shelter Nice
Columns topped with floral arrangements, swirling ceiling murals, loud and artfully clashing prints — this June 2024 opening near the port evokes the spirit of artists who lived in the city, such as Matisse and Picasso. The cosy rooms have rain showers, and the rooftop pool area is perfect for a day in the sun.
3. H ô tel du Couvent
In a city with a penchant for luxury, it’s not easy to stand out, but this 400-year-old nunnery-turned-five-star-hotel, also new this year, does just that. It swaps out the typical glitz for naturalistic gardens, a focus on local produce and simple but chic rooms. It’s tucked at the end of a steep street in Vieux Nice.
Where the locals go
1. Swim at Coco Beach
Sure, Nice’s three-mile main beach, with its pastel-blue waters, is what everyone comes for, but to start the day like many locals do, head past the port to the more intimate Coco Beach. Here, you’ll find a small pebble cove with shallower waters and off-white rocks to sunbathe on.
2. Have lunch at La Rotonde
Fancy a peek inside what is arguably Nice’s most famous building? La Rotonde at the ultra-luxe Le Negresco hotel on Promenade des Anglais is a contemporary brasserie run by the same chef as its Michelin-starred neighbour. Book for a weekday lunch and you’ll get the dish of the day with dessert, plus a look at the interior of the hotel, for €39 (£33).
3. Pick up a treat at Florian
Located in Port Lympia, Florian is a confectioner that’s a local favourite for sweet treats. All manner of creations can be found here, from candied fruit and chocolates to jams and fruit pastes. If you only try one thing, make it the crystallised flowers from Provence — a speciality of the shop. A box with verbena, rose and violet petals makes a perfect gift.
Best bars in Nice
1. Mamma Mia
Pull up one of the eye-catching red chairs, order yourself a large spritz and watch life unfold on Cours Saleya. The busy square is the perfect place for pre-dinner drinks to soak up the atmosphere of Nice coming alive at sundown. There are bar snacks and a full food menu, too, with pizzas and pastas.
2. Movida
Overlooking a row of palm trees and the Bay of Angels, this fashionable hangout has two balconies facing the sea and a seemingly endless drinks menu. It’s worth asking for the ‘cocktail creation’, where a bartender will serve a custom beverage based on your preferences. Then, sit back and enjoy the work of the resident DJ.
3. Cave Romagnan
While it doesn’t look like much from the outside, with plastic chairs and peeling paint, this is one of the city’s best live music venues. Every Saturday (and some Wednesdays) from 7pm onwards, the small venue in central Nice is packed with music fans, and jazz fills the streets long into the night. What’s more, it’s free to attend.
Published in the November 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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